MountainProjects Everest 2016 Expedition Blog

Certainly, my own legs driven by sheer willpower brought me to the summit of Everest. But they would be useless without the help of a few teammates who made this possible by contributing in an unbelievable way: our Sherpas.

The climbing Sherpas did not lift me across their shoulders and carried me up the hill. But they did other important things which are essential for Western climbers: route fixing, load carrying, setting up and taking down high altitude camp sites, assisting and guiding on summit day. Their portfolio of helping is endless and I mustconfess that without their support the number of Westerners on the summit of Everest would be drastically lower. And this includes me.

My body also needed fuel to make it up the mountain: power food, rich in calories and carbs. Not boring, canned and boil-in-the-bag plastic food. Fresh, delicious, versatile and healthy food: the mighty expedition cooks.

Their creativity and innovation turned every meal into a breathtaking surprise. They provided the foundation of my success. Puri Sherpa, left in above pic, is particular in as much as that he agreed to literally live in Camp 2 at an altitude of 6450 m for as long as four weeks to cook and cater for us during our acclimatization and summit push. I felt so relieved to see his fantastic smile each time I pulled in at C2. Let alone his delicious food he prepared for the team. What a contribution he made. My thank you for you, Puri Sherpa is just not enough….

Each climber gets assigned a summit Sherpa for the summit push. No, we did not hold hands, but literally he is your umbilical cord of safety. He knows the route to the top, its delicacies and how to negotiate key passages. And has the power to turn you around if things go awry for some reason. And leave you behind in case you don’t want to descend when it’s advisable. Why should he die for and with you? He has a family who awaits him.

This picture shows Son Dorje Sherpa, my assigned summit Sherpa, on the summit of Everest. A paragon of willpower, experience, knowledge and courage. He lives in Phortse and Kathmandu. I like his summit picture as it transmits precisely the harsh conditions on the summit. Thank you Son Dorje, for guiding me to the top of Everest. And for the coincidence of having the summit for us alone that day.

Every expedition needs a manager. With a busload of experience, patience, calm and prudence. With a management style that is crystal clear and considers all circumstances to come up with the right decisions. A person you trust like a child. With Kiwi Russell Brice and Phurba Tashi Sherpa we had two strong managers who made us feel safe and in good hands. A dream duo.

And then there is a whole bunch of porters and yaks who carry our gear to base camp and certainly down valley again. What if I had to shoulder my gear and bring it to BC? Unimaginable…

My gratitude goes to the SPCC icefall doctors who fix, check and maintain the route through the notorious Khumbu Icefall, the bottleneck between base camp and Western Cwm. An unbelievably dangerous task which still sends shivers down my back.

These are the people behind the scene. We must not forget them. It makes me proud of having had the honor to climb with them.

They deserve my many thanks.

This concludes my coverage of the MountainProjects Everest Expedition 2016. Many thanks for your interest and following me on the hill.

Stay with us…the next project will come.

Tashi Delek

Andreas Friedrich

http://www.mountainprojects.de

There is a brave bunch out there who wish not to get involved with Facebook. However, as you have followed me through my MountainProjects Expedition Blog, I like to share my gratitude over summitting Mount Everest with you in particular.

Friday the 13th of May, 8:46 Nepal time, not a superstitious day, but the very intense feeling of standing on Everest summit, mindful, humble and grateful.

In relation to the total world population, only few people have set foot on Everest. No reason to go nuts, but is it an achievement? I believe so, one of willpower, dedication, courage, discipline and resilience to cope with the hardship, discomfort and setbacks on the way up. When you want to reach your ultimate goal you need to have this mindset.

What is YOUR Everest?

Before I left for the expedition, I promised my very good friends Doma Lama and her son Chhewang to take a prayer scarf to the summit. It is now sending best wishes and fortune to many people across the world from this elevated location. I feel very happy and honoured to fulfill your wish.

I feel completely depleted now which is quite normal after having exerted my body and mind to this extreme physical and mental stress and strain. It will take me several weeks to recuperate fully.

Yet, I am deeply grateful for being able to summit, for all the lessons Everest has taught me, for all insights I gained through her wisdom. In the course of the expedition, I felt that Everest has lost her rocky nature and more and more has become a living being. We communicated every day, I prayed to her, connected my spirits and soul to her to allow to understand each other better, why I was here and why I wished to stand atop. I asked for Myolangsangma’s mercy (the deity who resides on Everest) to allow me access to her kingdom. And finally, she granted me permission to come to her, yet showing her devine  power through a howling, raging wind on the summit: her breath.

Never before have I felt her closer. Not only for this will I be grateful and humble for the rest of my life.

Chomolungma, Mother Goddess of All.

As the expedition is over with my summit last Friday, I still like to welcome you to part 3 of  Everest base camp which will cover some interesting specials.

What if you get sick

Do you have to abandon the expedition? Or cure yourself by self diagnose? Or throw stones? None of it is true. All I have to do is cry for Tracey, who is our expedition doctor from Vail, Colorado. She has specialized in high-altitude medicine and carries the right drugs in a big, red kit bag. In the expedition manager’s tent is an infirmary for those who need further and special treatment. I had to lie down there to be treated for heavy nosebleed after a few capillaries ripped.  It is vital for an expedition to have an experienced doctor like Tracey. Her goal is to prevent and fight diseases, avoid their spreading and to guarantee the sick person recovers soon. Any disease which spreads around the team has the potential to thwart the summit. Thus it is important to have an experienced expedition doctor.

Personal Hygiene

An Everest expedition lasts about 70 days. Too long a time to neglect personal hygiene. Multiple facilities are usable. Yes, we have a shower tent fed by glacier water and heated by an instantaneous water heater using gas.  Sometimes members have to agree on a shower sequence, especially when we come back from high on the mountain. If you don’t want to do this dog and pony, a bird’s bath is a nice alternative. Kitchen Sherpas provide you with a big bowl of fresh, warm water and a scoop. You then go behind a tent and shower yourself with the scoop. It’s basic, ok, but there is the fun. No member in fact showers every day which means a rejuvenating cure for your skin. In general, a good personal hygiene is very conducive not only to health and wellbeing but also to perform better under these extreme conditions. Everyone here has his little secrets, I tell you one of mine: I use a special deodorant gel which twice applied covers a period of seven days. Even if you sweat like hell, the 7- Day Deodorant saves your day.

Access to the mess tent is strictly only with hands sanitized to keep away any germs from food or members.

We have separate toilets for both women and men. For environmental protection all human waste is collected and disposed of in a retention tank.

Gear Care

must not be neglected and should receive good attention. This starts with your textiles like shirts and socks to remove the strong butter stinky odour. Since there is no washer here at BC, we simple get a big bowl with hot water (no, no, not the one we use for our personal hygiene), put in detergent and manually clean our textiles. It works and we always feel like a bunch of blabbermouths crouching on a riverbank. Gear like crampons, ice axes, climbing boots etc. need care as well since its vital to keep it in pristine condition.

Communications

Each time we leave base camp, we must use our radios to be reachable for Russ or Phurba Tashi Sherpa. Each member carries his own radio for the duration of the expedition. This originates from the 1996 tragedy on Everest when members got lost in a raging storm with no communications thus being not savable.

Satellite telephones are used by our expedition manager Russell Brice.

They are essential in case of a tragedy to organize rescues. In 2015 when the earthquake shook Nepal , all cell phone services were down. Thankfully, Russ was one of the few who could organize rescues by using his satellite telephone which helped to save many lives.

A satellite dish provides communications for weather forecasts and urgent email services. And members? Well, for a few years now we have a wifi service here at EBC. Everest Extreme is a provider offering fast and reliable service for those who do not collapse after learning the hefty price tag. But you can stay in touch with your friends and families at home. Even Skype calls and video calls are possible. Stay connected.

Ncell has a repeater somewhere on the moraine to allow for telephone calls. They are so unbelievably cheap, a 30 minute call to a mobile number in Germany is not more than 150 Rupees which equals about 1.20€.

All this can and is mainly used for personal reasons, but in case of a tragedy these communications can help save lives.

Daily Routine

Sometimes I have the impression our camp is organized by Germans. Great emphasis is put on punctuality. All is well organized and structured. But it is a Kiwi who likes it this way: Russell Brice. Ok, Russ, no worries, that’s fine.

For me as a German, who is used to it.

At 7 AM, we all hear a stunning and friendly „Ahh, Good Morning“ from Mama and Lakhpa Sherpas who offer fresh Massala bed tea to us. Before them, Dawa Sherpa provides a hot towel service.

These are no crazy ideas. The towel is the first hygiene of the day and after a cold night it feels like a boon. The tea helps to warm me up and Massala spice tea is my absolute favourite. Thanks Sherpas for this wonderful gesture and your ever-friendly smiles.

Breakfast starts at 8 AM and has a social character. Sometimes right after the breakfast, Russ gives a team briefing. Thereafter, we enjoy another brew in the warm morning sun surrounded by this immense landscape before we crawl back in our tents to do the housework: airing the sleeping bag over the tent ceiling, trash removal, laundry etc.. If the next day is an out-of-camp day, we rejiggle our gear depending on what we need. All sorts of private matters are done like diary, phone calls, emails and reading. And suddenly, the next feeding awaits the not so hungry members. Lunchtime begins at 12:30. The afternoon is at member’s discretion unless we undergo training or have briefings. Dinner starts at 6:30 PM, has a social character as well. I usually recline to my tent at 8:30 PM and fall asleep without having to count ice crystals sticking on my tent ceiling.

This is a rest day in base camp. When we are on the mountain, depending on the day task, we get up as early as 2 AM and start brewing, get ready to climb to another camp to acclimate further.

Do you find this boring? Well, it has an element of very few tasks, but while in base camp, the objective is to recuperate by sleeping, drinking, eating and inoffensive pastime. Get ready for the next rotation.

This concludes my Everest Base Camp coverage. I truly hope you gained an insight of what makes base camp life. Welcome to high-altitude lifestyle and serious Himalayan mountain climbing.

Tashi Delek from EBC

Andreas

The Icefall

As we can see the lower part from the Khumbu icefall from our tents, it is something totally different to finally climb through it. Especially during night. This is a fascinating landscape and yet a treacherous area, literally a non-stopping zone. The sounds you here make you very nervous. And there are two ways to protect yourself from being impaired by these sounds. Firstly, the darkness helps you to not realize where you are climbing. The cone of your head torch is the limit of your visibility.

This picture shows the entry to the Khumbu icefall. This season’s route is on the right of the icefall. The part you see here is called the lower popcorn field.

Daylight – The curtain rises

However, sun rises at around 4:30 AM and with it comes a worrisome change: daylight. It instantaneously gives you a perception where you climb. And you feel like the ham in somebody else’s sandwich.

We had to negotiate horizontal and vertical ladders, tied together and bridging huge crevasses. And here is the second distraction that keeps you calm: concentration on your climb. By this time you realize that you are part of a silent progression of people. Focussed on each move, detached from the outside world and trying to avoid haste but yet climb efficiently.

Dooming seracs are ready to collapse at any time as you negotiate around them. This is a very unpleasant feeling. Scary darkness and daylight.

The Cwm

But finally you feel released when you climb the vertical headwall that marks the end of the icefall. And then you enter the Western Cwm, pronounced Kum. It is a Welsh name.

The Cwm is also called the Valley of Silence. It’s ovally shaped and the gigantic Lhotse Face marks it’s end. Nuptse is on the right with Everest West shoulder on the left.

One must be aware that we are walking on the very active Khumbu glacier. This years route requires extensive zig-zagging around huge crevasses, ladder crossing and climbing steep ice walls. It all looks relatively shallow, however above 6000 m nothing is shallow. Day temperatures in the Cwm can easily reach above 30 degrees while you cook in your heavy down suit. A very strenuous effort to reach camp 2. The yellow dots which are the tents just won’t come closer.

Camp 2 – 6440 m

And then you are there at Camp 2 which sits high on a moraine below Everest West Shoulder. Dominated by the massive Lhotse Face.

From our camp site we are able to spot the route to Camp 3 which leads into the Lhotse Face. It makes me humble and my blood run cold. Camp 2 is a very desolate place. And when the temperatures start to drop, then it’s down suit time.

Our mess tent is unheated and the only heat generated comes from wearing the suits.

Cozy, but a lot of discomfort as you must even wear gloves to touch the silverware.

After two nights in Camp 2 it was time to acclimate further: to above 7000 m. Most teams here neglect the advantage of going high up, but for members it is vital to know one can survive at Camp 3.

This picture shows the vista from Camp 3 down the Western Cwm towards the icefall with Pumori in the center background. To get there from Camp 2 is a super strenuous and challenging climb. There is no flat ground in the Lhotse Face, just sheer steepness.

Miserable Night

When I reached Camp 3 my altimeter showed 7400 m. Here at this altitude everything is hard work and very exhausting . Your body, already totally depleted and worn out after a 10000 calorie burn, just says No to you. I crept in my tent trying to take off my climbing boots. Believe it or not, it took me 15 minutes. Any move you do up there takes you much longer than lower. Water boiling takes 3 times longer than usual due to the lack of oxygen. When I ate my power muesli I noticed I needed 5 minutes for one little spoon to chew. My appetite was gone. I was incredibly thirsty. Changing socks and t-shirt took forever. At around 5 PM temperatures dropped considerably and I crawled in my sleeping bag to generate enough heat to warm me back up for the frosty night.

A phenomenon called Cheyne-Stokes respiration kept me from sleeping at all. This is an abnormal pattern of breathing. You fall into a minute sleep with deep and fast breathing followed by a temporary stop in breathing which feels like suffocating. A lot of anxiety and unrest give you a hard time to sleep. This is not funny yet normal for these high altitudes. It is part of the adaption process.

We then left Camp 3 in the morning repelling to the foot of the Lhotse Face and eventually to Camp 2. The weather deteriorated rapidly and finally we had to stay in camp for two more nights before returning to EBC where we are right now. The lower altitude at EBC is ideal to recuperate, rest and focus on the final phase of our expedition: the summit push. This is totally dependent on weather and route fixing to the summit.

Professional weather forcasting and analysis plus meticulous route fixing by our Sherpas will pave our way to the summit of Everst at 8850 m. A jetliner cruise altitude.

Namgyal Sherpa together with me in Camp 2. Although very young, Namgyal has multiple Everest summits to his name. Simply one of the best and talented Sherpas and one of a group of Sherpas who make me proud to work with on Everest. All of them are very nice characters. What a bunch…

Stay tuned for the final part of Everest Base Camp which will cover interesting topics.

Tashi Delek from Everest Base Camp, 5450 m

Andreas

Why amenities at such a remote spot

Welcome to part 2 of my Everest Base Camp EBC coverage. Today I shall introduce you to food and water, sleeping and energy.

Food and Water

Those who aim to climb Everest must utterly consume two things: food and water. Since nothing grows at the altitude of EBC, basically all food has to be delivered to the camp from the lowlands. Typically, this is done by good-natured yaks, animals which carry unbelievable loads. Also porters carry goods to EBC. Urgent deliveries are helicoptered to camp.

To give you an idea about the scale of food needed for an Everest expedition, an unbelievable 5000 eggs were brought to our BC. All food is stored in a food storage tent except the perishable food.

Perishables are kept superfresh by using the most obvious resource: the ice under us. Your metabolism does not function properly at this altitude due to a lack of oxygen saturation. Add to this the physical strenuousness, one needs to eat a lot of calories. This determines the character of high-altitude expedition food. Fresh and rich in calories and carbs. And lots of garlic which thins your blood. See below pictures for a typical breakfast and lunch.

All dishes are prepared freshly in the kitchen tent. It is stunning to see how our head cooks Lacchu and Ganu Sherpa together with their crew cook one delicious meal after the other. Even fresh cakes sweeten our evenings. Each plate is a mouthwatering miracle. Is this luxury? No, since excellent, fresh, high-quality food is the essential basis for a summit success not only on Everest. We are literally „fattened up“ before to counteract the weight loss of climbing days. On these days we burn between 8000 and 10000 calories.

While some operators use kerosine to cook, Himex choose gas. It is more eco-friendly. All cylinders are returned, cleaned and refilled. As Himex is determined to leave no trace of rubbish in nature, gas is the perfect solution.

Water is another key factor to success. One must sufficiently hydrate at this altitude. This means litres of fluid. Each thirst requires an incredible amount of water. There is no spring on the glacier. So where does the water come from? Again, a simple and obvious solution. From a nearby glacier lake. And it is unpolluted which has been one aspect when choosing our campsite.

The water is filled in little barrels and then carried to the kitchen tent where it is brought to a boil. And this is how we quench our thirst. Unpolluted fresh water is as essential to a successful expedition as food.

Some water however is used for a totally different purpose: hygiene. Probably the strictest rule in EBC is to wash and sanitize hands before each meal and after the toilet. One nasty little germ can ruin the entire expedition.

You are now aware of the three fundamentals of a successful expedition: fresh food, unpolluted water and strict hygiene. These are no luxury amenities. They are fundamentals. No compromise!

Sleeping

We all sleep in tents. In base camp, we have individual tents which give us maximum privacy. To recline for a few hours and be with oneself is vital to stay focused. However, at anywhere up on the hill we share tents with a climbing mate. This is because each tent has to be carried upwards by our Sherpas thus reducing the amount of tents needed if shared. I sleep on a cushioned mattress with an isomat that shields off the cold from below. A pillow is provided for an important reason. Elevating your head helps acclimatising a lot. No amenity, but a helpful tool.

My tents is rather uncluttered as I prefer a distinct order with the least possible stress to find my stuff. Typically German? Most climbers do it like this. Mess is stress.

All gear is packed in two kit bags, one contains the „iron“ like crampons and  ice axes while the other one has all clothes. I use stuff sacks, individually labelled with a number. Finding this number on a checklist helps me finding quicker whatever I search. My gear weighs about 39 kilos. Poor yaks…sorry. I use the ceiling to hang private essentials like pictures of my partner and daughter. Boosting confidence, stay connected and feeling less alone.

This ends part 2 of my EBC coverage. Part 3 may take me a few more days, in fact I expect it being online not before early May. We are soon getting very busy here…

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Many of you probably ask themselves very important questions regarding our base camp. And you are right, because what is nothing new to me as an expedition member is of great significance and interest to you. Thus I will now introduce you to Everest base camp in three parts to show you various aspects of life here. This first part covers location of the campsite, its structure as well as dangers and annoyances.

Location

Everest base camp EBC is a term used in general for campsites of expeditions which want to climb Everest. However, one must not understand this term as a single spot where all expeditions jostle. EBC is a rather wide stretch, an area which covers almost the entire Khumbu glacier to the Nuptse west wall. Each expedition picks its own spot. An unofficial pecking order yet seems to determine who resides where. The top-dog, international operators who enjoy a great reputation have the best spots. In other words, those operators which are members of the EOA. This is the Expedition Operators Association.

Now, what means „best spots“? Simply said those with the least risks. Far away from avalanche paths, least shadow, quietness, and things like unlimited access to unpolluted water sources.

All BCs however share one thing: they lie far-flung on the jagged Khumbu glacier at an altitude of 5450 m.

In the foreground of this picture you see the Khumbu glacier. It starts in the Western Cwm, also called Valley of Silence, whose lower region you can spot in the center. This is called the Khumbu icefall. Our EBC lies a 45 minute walk away from the icefall on the glacier opposite the gigantic Nuptse west face. The mountain you see looks a bit like Everest, but is an unclimbed mountain in Tibet. In fact, you can spot Everest with your eagle eyes where the two ridge lines drop to a v-shaped spot in the upper center. There you see Everest with her typical plume. Luckily, from my tent I can not only see her very easily, but also enjoy a breathtaking view on Nuptse and the Khumbu icebergs.

Structure

Our EBC consists of several units that make the camp. These units cover all essentials with one primary goal: to survive at this high altitude. To accomplish this, one needs food, shelter and communications.

All team members enjoy maximum privacy in individual tents. They are rather spacious as they are designed for two people. It is important to have the chance to recline and be with oneself.

It is left to the individual team member how to arrange his tent. However, a certain order is advisable since two kit bags and a lot of gear need to find their spots. I use stuff sacks in the bags which contain my clothes and a checklist indicating the exact content of each sack. This avoids stress to search the kit bags anytime you look for your favourite t-shirt. Personal items like family pictures hang from the ceiling to stay connected with home.

A mess tent serves not only for dining, but also for team members to socialize. It stands next to the kitchen tent. Delicious meals are prepared here by our Sherpa cooks and all dirty plates are washed in a separate scullery just opposite. Next to the scullery is the food store tent which contains all food supplies. Our expedition manager Russell Brice has his own huge tent. It consists of a sleeping facility, has the first aid compartment and all communications. We call it CentCom, Central Command. All Sherpas have their own sleeping and mess tents. Since we have a Discovery Channel film crew with us, they need their separate tent for all technical equipment. Toilet tents are available for both men and women. A shower tent where glacier water is heated with gas provides an essential amenity.

Above picture shows our EBC with all tents as described. A more detailed description of some of the tents will follow in part 2 and 3.

Dangers and Annoyances

We reside on an active glacier which moves about 4 m per year. This means roughly 1 cm per day. And you can feel and hear its movements typically during the night.

The tension, cracking and grating sounds are like someone smashing a sledgehammer against a big rock. A bit scary when you lie in your tent…

The entire area is very prone to rock and ice avalanches. They are a permanent neighbor. The steep faces of Nuptse, Lingtren and Pumori (where the 2015 quake kicked off the devastating avalanche) let tons of ice and rock go both during the day and night. Their roaring power is overwhelming. Usually none of these avalanches roll over the safer spots on the glacier, however there a BC locations which are considered incredibly unsafe. Our BC is at a very safe and elevated spot on the glacier.

The glacier is covered with thousands of rocks of various sizes. That doesn’t mean we walk on paved smooth surface.Where there are no rocks, the sun melts the ice which refreezes during the night. There is an imminent danger of stumbling and slipping which can ruin all your goals.

Although being very stable at the moment, the weather can be quite tricky here. As long as the sun shines this place is rather enjoyable. But changes dramatically when the sun sets behind Pumori to something barren and inhospitable. Also sudden changes to strong winds and huge temperature drops can happen in a short period of time.

Access to our EBC for non-team members is strictly by invitation only. Germs and diseases brought in by treckers are too high a danger. They can ruin an entire expedition.

Goraks, large Himalayan crows fly around in EBC. They are true masters of using their beak to break into tents to search for food. Not so cute an animal.

This covers part 1 of my Everest Base Camp series. Part 2 follows soon and deals with food/water, sleeping and energy resources.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Puja – Sherpa Religious Believe

Today, Thursday, our Sherpas celebrated their puja. It is a formal and very important religious ceremony to ask the deities for permission to step on the mountain, a safe climb and good karma. No Sherpa would ever dare to climb a mountain without a puja.

Burning juniper is an essential part of a puja. As Sherpas follow their own calendar, we had to wait with them for a good day. Full moon is one of those days, which is today. Thus the puja today.

The ceremony, held by Phurba Tashi Sherpa, 21 Everest summits to his name, was very emotional. We sat in front of a man-made chorten with offerings to the deities.

All offerings were blessed in the puja. Rice and Tsampa thrown up in the air mean establishing a connection with the deities. Later in the ceremony, all sorts of blessed booze were offered to drink like beer, Chang and whisky.

Prayer flags were flying in clear blue skies with Pumori, Nuptse and Everest providing a breathtaking scenery. Personal belongings like climbing gear were brought to the chorten by all team climbers to be blessed.

Finally,Phurba Tashi placed a blessed thin band around each expedition member’s neck to wish good luck for the climb. Although it is very simple, it means a lot to us climbers. It must be worn until it comes apart by itself.

While the Sherpas prayed, I looked to Everest to finally connect myself with her and Myolangsangma, the deity who resides on her summit. I felt her mercy and will to protect me for which I have asked her many times. Now I feel connected to her. And relieved.

But also felt the insignificance of human mankind in her closeness.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Lobuche East 6115 m – first rotation

Having been out of touch for some days with no communications at all, we have completed the Lobuche stage of acclimatisation with two climbs. Our first rotation started from the so-called rockcamp to the east summit.

It was a hard and strenuous climb and technically challenging. We had to negotiate steep sections of window glass hard ice. Demanding rock sections in the lower part of the mountain took it all from us. Not an easy mountain to acclimatise. But a good training for the Lhotse face on Everest.

Second rotation

After the first summit we descended all the way back to base camp where we were welcomed by Mama and Puri Sherpas. They had lunch ready. Delicious as ever. What a dream team these two. The rest of the day had a simple focus: recuperating. Which means resting, drinking and eating. The next day was a complete rest day before the second rotation to the summit. This time starting from Lobuche base camp to the east summit.

Well rested and goal minded, the team left base camp at 6 AM and reached the summit at midday 12h.

The summit is a little plateau with sheer drop-offs to all sides. If one stumbles, it is a fatal flight.

We had to keep this in mind as we had to spend time on the summit. Five tents were put-up by our sherpas.

We crawled into them, made a brew, had some food, enjoyed the vistas

and….waited for nightfall. The night was cold and windy, however to leave at 7:30 AM the next morning was some sort of relief. As other teams worked their way up, we abseiled towards them and passed them. Three hours later we were back in Lobuche base camp for a late breakfast. This was not the end of our day.

Sleep high

We slept high at an altitude of 6115 m which is not a funny adventure. One feels the altitude intensely. An altitude for which the human body is not made for. So with Lobuche base camp sitting at 4900 m, it is too low an altitude to benefit from the time spent above 6000 m. Hence, after descending the goal was to return to Everest base camp. This means another 3-4 hour walk. EBC sits at 5490 m which provides more benefits in terms of acclimatisation.

Reaching EBC with all its amenities was like a home sweet home feeling. Dead tired but very happy to be welcomed by our „Big Boss“ Russ and the sherpa team.

In retrospect, Lobuche East is a challenging mountain and certainly not a nice Sunday morning walk. It taught us precious lessons for our ultimate goal: Sagarmatha, the Sherpa name for Mount Everest.

We will now stay in EBC for the rest of the expedition. Before climbing into the Western Cwm through the treacherous ice fall, we enjoy several rest days. There are two distinguished events. First is the Puja held by the Sherpas on Thursday. The second one is training in the lower part of the ice fall which is called popcorn field. The focus is on crevasse crossing using ladders and ice climbing.

My next blog will introduce you to our base camp here at Everest. I will cover various subjects which provide you with an in-depth overview.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Mortality

On our way to Everest base camp EBC, we crossed a pass named Dzongh La. This is a very iconic and emotional place.

It is a memorial site for Sherpa and western climbers who died on Everest. As soon as I passed under the flags which mark the pass and entry to the site, I got caught by an intense emotion which hit me instantaneously. I could neither escape from it nor ignore it. It was omnipresent and I felt a cold creeping into my body. This was the cold of death and mortality.

Memorial and Warning

Seeing the memorials almost immediately made aware the overall danger of my endeavour to climb Everest. I walked across the area reading the inscriptions of the tombstones. And each of them was a climber who came to Everest with the same mindset, courage and determination as I do. This changed the character of the site from a memorial to a big warning site. I reflected why I am here, what my responsibilities toward my family and friends are and weather or not it is legitimate to do. Thousands of thoughts hammered through my brain and soul. Which decision is the right one? And then the letter my daughter wrote to me before I left kicked in. Her letter is the utmost responsibility to me to remember what my „real summit“ is: to return to her and my partner who has a hard time now and yet supports me in an unbelievable way which takes a lot of courage. Dozens of options to balance.

Scott Fisher

By far the most prominent memorial is for Scott Fisher, an American climber who died in the tragedy 1996. Guiding his team on Everest, he reached the summit too late and was caught in a raging storm that engulfed the mountain. With him died another nine climbers. The lessons learned from his death are invaluable in as much safety while climbing has increased tremendously.

Adventures start outside our comfort zone. They have a life of their own which we cannot stop or manipulate. We must acknowledge the inherent risks. And our responsibilities.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Further North to acclimatise further

Lobuche base camp was our home for two days. Located very remotely, we felt cut off from the rest of the world. We slept in tents for the first time since the expedition started. Very cold nights felt differently in the tents but the sun rising at 7:30 warmed us up while still lying in our sleeping bags.

Lobuche base camp in lower right corner shot from a hill above it (this time well below 5000 meter).

Closer view of base camp with mess tents in foreground and members‘ behind.

Using solar power to heat up water.

This camp provides a lot of amenities and the privacy of individual tents, however though is rather rudimentary compared to our base camp at Everest. I will cover this camp in detail soon.

Before this, I take you with me to a very special place called Tokhla.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Back connected

Today I am writing to you from Everest Base Camp EBC where communications are awesome but come at a hefty price. Let me go back a few days before I have reached EBC.

Pheriche

Located a bit at the end of the world, Pheriche feels very inhospitable and barren. Pressed in a valley surrounded by rock giants it gave me an outlook where our team is supposed to head to.

Thankfully, our lodge was brand new, so we enjoyed all amenities possibile at such a remote location. Pheriche also meant to pass the 4000 meter threshold, which means an extra rest day there. To help acclimatise, we climbed a mountain right above the village for the mere sake to learn that we have overdone it that day. The summit of this peak sits at 5050 meter, a bit too high and exercise for a rest day. When we came down we felt what we have done physically.

I ate as much as I could, drank 4 litres of electrolytes followed by a Paracetamol for dessert.

Lesson learned. Be courageous and say no.

Then in the afternoon I listened to a lecture given by a doctor who is based in Pheriche and works for Himalayan Rescue Association. It was good to review all issues related to high altitude diseases. A worthwhile precaution.

Next days plan was to start early towards Lobuche base camp, which we actually could see from oour lodge in Pheriche. Lobuche (seen right side with ice cover on summit) our acclimatization peak to avoid going through the treacherous Khumbu icefall too often.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Pheriche, 4230 m

Thanks to Everest Link, a powerful internet repeater, I was able to post at least two of the blogs I had in mind. That required a lot of patience because this service is heavily weather dependent.

I am writing to you now from a place named Pheriche high up in the Khumbu. It is just a few lodges, a barren, inhospitable and cold place a a bit like Golgatha.

After two nights here and having climbed a neighboring peak to acclimatise further, we broke through the 5000 m threshold. From now on, our backpacks need to be even lighter since we will feel the altitudes even more intense.

Tomorrow we leave for Lobuche base camp. Lobuche is the peak you can see in the far right background of this picture, snow and ice covered. Staying there for two night we acclimatise to the higher altitudes before continuing northbound to Everest base camp. Later, we return to Lobuche to climb this mountain and spend two nights in tents on one of his summits at roughly 6130 m.

Since Lobuche is so detached from the outside world with no communications, I shall not be able to blog since we arrive at EBC (Everest Base Camp).

Again, please do not forget where I am and how tedious conditions are here.

Stay tuned and Tashi Delek

Andreas

Over the Hill

Today’s stretch is rather short. All we have to do to reach Khumjung is walk over a hill. Khumjung, where we stay in Purba Tashi’s lodge sits on a high plateau over Namche. Purba is our Sirdar and a close friend of Russel Brice. A sirdar manages all Sherpas during an expedition. We are proud and sort of blessed to climb with Purba who has summitted Everest 21 times.

Not so strenuous a duty, leaving enough energy for crazy pictures: the „Rainbow Team“

Khumjung was also affected with heavy devastation during the 2015 earthquake: Cracked Gompa

Our head cook Lacchu with his overwhelming smile. His efforts keep us in pristine health. One bad meal and you are out of the game here. Thanks Lacchu for taking very good care.

A rather old gompa with Ama Dablam in the center background and ice-covered Lhotse Shar in the left background.

Khumjung village

Near Khumjung is the famous Everest View Hotel, where we had tea. And Everest just popped-out of the clouds showing her summit with the terrifying Lhotse south face on the right.

Paying a visit to Khumjung Monastery, we received a Puja for our expedition given by 16 monks. This is unusual, however after the Discovery Channel film team made a donation for their permission to film, the monks agreed to hold a Puja for the Himex Everest Team. A very touchy and heart-wrenching moment.

Khumjung Monastery

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Leaving Monjo

Our second stage led us from Monjo to Namche Bazar,which is the Sherpa capital of the Khumbu. In meters it means we leave at 2740 meters to 3300 which means a vertical altitude gain of 560 meters. As Russel Brice, our expedition manager, likes to get up very early, we all had again the kit bags ready at 7:30 with the alarm set to 6:30. What was meant to be a vacation, but in the Himalayas it seems to be a little different.

Yaks waiting for our loads to carry them to Namche Bazar.

Mountain view on our way to Namche

Expedition bottle

Suspension bridge over Dudh Khosi river whick means milk river.

Looking back to Monjo which sits in the middle of the picture, left of the rock.

Just below Namche Bazar we were able to spot what we aim for: Everest still very far away showing a gigantic so-called plume. The plume is a gigantic ice cloud formed by jet stream winds literally rasping away the summit at speeds often greater than 100 miles per hour.

Team members in Namche in good mood, ready for lunch.

A mouthwatering German dish.

Mountains towering over Namche.

Panoramic view of Namche.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

The weather in the Khumbu for the past days has had a serious effect on my ability to blog. With heavy fog crawling in around midday, most repeaters weren’t reachable thus no post let alone picture upload was possible.

So, please don’t forget where I am: in the high Himalayas.

On Tuesday, we will head-off to Pheriche and Lobuche base camp on Thursday being detached from the outside world with no reception at all. As soon as we reach Everest base camp, presumably on Saturday, communications will be much better, thus blogging a lot easier.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Good bye Hyatt

Very early, at 5:30 AM, kit bags were gathered and the first of three groups was ready to leave Kathmandu for a helicopter ride to  Lukla. I felt not only excited about the helicopter flight but as well could feel a humble respect for what lies now ahead of me. Chomolungma, the Tibetan name for Everest, seems to have started to link herself with me. Everest, Mother Goddess of All.

Kit bags ready

Also climbing members of the first group needed to be ready to leave early: left to right Hardeep (Kenia),Semba San (Japan), Andreas, Creg (USA), Jaco (NL)

My ticket to Lukla.

The bird which took us to the Khumbu.

Birds eye view, flying eastbound in hazy air.

Paying a visit to the local market in Lukla before tracking in to Monjo, our first stop.

Would you buy this meat? Not so sure…

A huge Mani stone and prayer wheel which I turned to wish us good luck.

Bridge to a village before Monjo.

Vegetable cultivation

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Gear check complete and kit bags packed

Before we leave the Hyatt Kathmandu, all personal gear has been meticulously checked by Richard, our guide on Everest. This is vital step to assure every climber is equipped top notch to meet all conditions on Everest.

Looks like a lot of gear, but it is packed in two kit bags, one of them traveling directly to Everest base camp first by truck to Jiri and then onwards with the appreciated help of our porters. Khumbu northbound to Everest base camp which sits on the jagged Khumbu glacier at an altitude of 5400 meter.

Get ready. Be ready. To leave on Thursday.

My gratitude to Sherpa Adventure Gear for contributing excellent gear. Made in Nepal.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

Just to let you know how the Himalayan mountain range looks like from the air: MASSIVE,

Daulaghiri, one of the 14 8000 meter giants seen while holding over Kathmandu waiting for our inbound slot to land for haze.

And Manaslu 8165m, which I was grateful to summit in 2012 with Himalayan Experience.

Stunnig views, touchy and formidable.

Tachi Delek

Andreas

With a little help from a good friend

from Chhewang Lama I am now able to send you pictures from our visit to Kagate last week. It wouldn’t been possible at at all had he not helped me in such a great way.

Bikash Palikhey, our architect together with Shyam who oversees all works at Kagate gauging the land on which the school will be constructed.

The first wooden pole which marks the start of all works in Kagate.

One corner of the new school building: the goal is visible now in Kagate.

Bikash and Chhewang introducing the school design to the kids and parents in Kagate. How can buildings move around in a computer? Not the only question the villagers ask themselves. Bikash, the magician.

A farewell picture with some of the Kagate kids.

Tashi Delek

Andreas

I just returned from Kagate, where we made extensive progress. Thanks to Bikash Palikhey’s support we have reached an agreement with an overseer, who will supervise all works in Kagate. He has a strong technical background and will receive maximum support by Bikash from Kathmandu.

Construction phase 1 will start with the retaining wall on the east side of the area. This has to be completed by June before the monsoon starts to flood the villages. Also, wood has to be acquired, dried during the monsoon before it can be build in the roof construction. Phase 1 also comprises the construction of the Kindergarden, which will later be used as a school room.

As much as I wish to send you pictures, here in Nepal all is very limited technically. I am simply not capable of loading picture into the blog for you to see what I am talking about. All I can promise now is to try hard tomorrow to reload some pics for you. My apologies for this disappointments.

I shall leave my friend’s place on Tuesday to join the expedition in the Hyatt Kathmandu. I am curious to meet the other members, guides and staff.

From there, I will report further. Again my apologies.

Cheers from Kathmandu

Andreas

My journey starts in Munich today. Via Abu Dhabi to Kathmandu.

With my preferred carrier Etihad. My gratitude again to Berni Lüdtke.

Nervousness and tons of respect for what lies ahead of me. And curiosity for the new I shall experience.

My gratitude to you my friends for all your best wishes and encouragement. I ‚ll take you with me.

I shall return. Promised.

Heute beginnt meine Reise in München. Ich fliege über Abu Dhabi nach Kathmandu.

Mit meinem 1. Wahl Carrier Etihad. Danke an Berni Lüdtke.

Nervosität und Tonnen von Respekt vor dem, was vor mir liegt. Und Neugier auf das Neue, was ich erfahren werde.

Ich danke alle meinen Freunden für Eure Wünsche und Unterstützung. Ich nehme Euch mit. Bis nach oben.

Wir sehen uns wieder! Versprochen.

Wie trainiert man für einen 8000er? Die Frage für mich war, wie kann ich das Training effektiv und zielgerichtet gestalten. Dieses Training könnte ich auch alleine machen.  Allerdings wäre es dann weniger effektiv und zielgerichtet. In diesem Moment kam Rainer Morasch in mein Leben (zumindest das vor dem Everest).

Er ist Personal Trainer und hat es geschafft, mir, der zeitlebens Sport gemacht hat, Grenzen aufzuzeigen, sodass ich sehr zügig eine klare Vorstellung davon hatte, was ich alles trainieren muss, um Erfolg zu haben. Kenne deine Schwächen, dann kannst du sie zu Stärken machen. Das war nicht Sonntagsmotto, sondern vielmehr das Ziel des gesamten Trainings mit Rainer.

Die zwei Säulen

Die zwei Säulen meines Trainingskonzeptes waren einerseits Personal Training mit verschiedenen Schwerpunkten (z.B. core, Kraft, Gleichgewicht, Mobilisation) sowie Ausdauer und Technik, die ich selber trainiert habe. Beide Bereiche galt es mit hoher Intensität zu machen, was eine unglaublich vorausschauende Planung erforderte. Ich weiß nicht, wieviel Höhenmeter ich in 2015 gegangen bin, als ich durchschnittlich 850 Höhenmeter mit einem schweren Rucksack schaffte hat es mich nicht mehr interessiert. Ich bin nur noch gerannt, teilweise zwei Gipfel an einem Tag. Rauf, runter, rauf, runter war die Devise. Das macht nicht richtig Spaß, aber ich hatte ja mein Ziel vor Augen und wusste, wofür ich das alles machte. Manche Blicke von anderen Leuten am Berg werde ich nie vergessen. Für sie war ich wahrscheinlich ein besessener Spinner.

Rainer Morasch

Rainer Morasch – Personal Training

Rainer ist ehemaliger Bundesligaringer und hat mehr als 30 Jahre Erfahrung als aktiver Sportler sowie langjährige Erfahrung als Trainer. Er besitzt die A-Lizenzen als Personal und Medizinischer Trainer und das IST Diplom als Sport- und Fitnesstrainer. Erfahrung und Sachkenntnis im Übermaß. Gerade seine Erfahrung als Bundesligaringer hat sich für mein Core Training ausgezahlt, das ein elementarer Pfeiler eines Bergsteigers ist: Stabilität und Haltung. Rainer deckt alle Trainingsbereiche ab von medizinischem Training über Functional Training bis zum Athletiktraining. Für mich war Rainer nicht nur Trainer sondern auch Lehrmeister, mit dem ich die verschiedenen Muskeln meines Körpers begann wahrzunehmen. Dadurch konnte ich sie gezielt ansteuern, trainieren und bilden. Ein absoluter Gewinn für meinen Körper. Rainer macht sich nun selbstständig, um seine Erfahrung in effektivem Personal Training an seine Kunden weiterzugeben

Tom Burger

Tom Burger : Mission Letzter Schliff

Ich bin froh, dass Tom Burger von Elements München sich bereit erklärt hat, mir den letzten Schliff zu verpassen. Er macht da weiter, wo Rainer und ich aufgehört haben. Tom ist ehemaliger Zehnkämpfer, ein ebenso erfahrener Personal Trainer und Motivator. Seine Detailgenauigkeit und Präzision ist schon fast „besessen“, aber das ist ebenso wie bei Rainer Prädikat für einen sehr guten Trainer.  Schon nach den ersten Runden mit Tom spürte ich, dass mich das Training mit Tom noch weiter verbessert. Rainer und Tom – das beste Trainer Duo für mich für den Everest.

Das Ergebnis

Die Leistungsdiagnostik hat gezeigt, dass sich mein hartes Training ausgezahlt hat. Alle Werte liegen im exzellent Bereich. Und so fühle ich mich: Exzellent! Mental und körperlich.

Meinen allerherzlichsten Dank an Rainer und Tom für ihr fantastisches Training, dessen Zielsetzung war, mich ultimativ fit zu machen für die Everest Expedition. Das ist die minimale Grundvoraussetzung, damit ich mich auf den Weg machen kann. Zum Everest. Ziel erreicht. Ready to face the challenge.